Dali (Yunnan Province)

At breakfast, we had an assortment of dumplings and noodle soups, as well as fresh fruit and sweetened bread. This hotel apparently had a thing for BET (Black Entertainment Television). There were no less that 8 screens in the dining area that showed a whole new aspect of American culture to my kids. 

Then we headed to the train station where security stopped us while screening our big luggage. These were the bags we always checked for airplanes so had never had a problem with them, but in China they were not going to let us take our craft scissors (from school supplies), kitchen knife (that was for cooking), nor our gifted and engraved kukri knife from Nepal … Sigh. That last one could have been a felony except for our fast-talking guide helping us out.

Other than that, the trip went smoothly. 

We were met in Dali by our guide and also by our driver. They took us to the town of Xizhou to see the “Houses of Bai People.” The Bai are a minority group in China, who are known for having white houses decorated with detailed and beautiful paintings. 

We went into one house that had previously belonged to the wealthy Yan family for over a century. From what I understand, they abandoned it in the 1960s when they fled during the “cultural revolution.” It is now a museum. 

When we climbed to the second floor, I noted that the stair steps were really narrow, so much so that I had to turn my foot sideways to ascend. Our guide said that was because the only ones who spent time upstairs were women and children. And the women had bound feet. Our guide also showed us a palanquin on display that was used to carry the women whenever they went out of the house to protect their bound feet. 

Sammy asked, “What are bound feet?” 

Our guide, who apparently spent little time with children, regaled them with a detailed 20 minute lecture on the procedure to bind the feet of little girls, and then threw in some probably unnecessary details about concubines for added interest. Needless to say, our kids were horrified and asked no more questions. 

While at the museum, an elementary school group came through. They were completely shocked when they spotted Jimmy, Sammy and Lucy. Some kids jumped back in surprise (and even a little fright) when we walked past. One called out, "Whoa, white people!" And then there were whispers and giggling and faces hid behind hands as they tried to get a better look, especially of Lucy. This was starting to happen a lot. Lucy attracted a fair amount of attention in Nepal too, but nothing compared to what we were seeing in China. 

One thing I was starting to see a lot of in China was rock sculptures.

This one they made into an incredible fountain.

In Xizhou, we also walked through the town square where we saw loads of stalls selling a variety teas, especially a flower tea that was in season. And, then also this fried cheese. We had to try that.

Next, we went to the village of Caicun where we rented bikes (with flowers!) to ride along the Erhai Lake. 

We all really enjoyed this bike ride, especially watching the locals out for a nice Saturday evening with friends or on dates. Girls in flowing dresses. Couples riding snoopy scooters that blasted silly music as it zoomed along. Musicians gathering small open-air audiences. It was so fun!

I could have spent all day doing this, but our tour guide was insistent that we had a “program” and needed to get on to the Ancient Town of Dali. It was getting late, and we hadn’t even checked into our hotel, which turned out to be amazing!! 

The Dali Landscape Hotel 

By the time we arrived to the Ancient Town Dali, it was getting dark and we were exhausted. But we did explore a bit.

The kids loved this creepy pig.

A number of the restaurants had people dancing in the front to lure people inside.

There was a lot to see, and it was really fun. I would definitely have spent more time in Dali overall.