Oxford

England is full of wonderful things to see and do, but I only had one “must do” item on my list for this trip. That was to go to Oxford and do a C.S. Lewis and Tolkien tour. Whenever I'm asked the question, "if you could have a conversation with one person, living or dead, who would it be?" I always say C.S. Lewis, or as he is called by his friends, Jack. Really, I don't need a conversation with him. I mostly just want to listen in on a conversation between him and other smart people. That would be amazing!

Anyway, we weren’t staying in Oxford, so the plan was to drive out from Great Rissington in the Cotswolds and make a day of it.

There was one company that offered the tour, but only twice a month, on Saturdays. So we prepared ourselves that it might be busier in Oxford than normal. It was. 

But we enjoyed it all the same.

We saw where Tolkien and Lewis lived and taught. Tolkien at Pembroke College and Lewis at Magdalen College, as well as a number of other notable sites around Oxford.

One of the more interesting things we learned was how the college/university system actually works at Oxford. 

My short (and possibly inaccurate) understanding of it is this:

The university is the institution that provides lectures and awards degrees, while the college is a smaller community where the students live and study. Each college will have representatives from all academic pursuits. They have their own library, dining hall and dormitories. So, you apply to get into the university, but then you also separately apply for acceptance to a college. 

So, when you hear that C.S. Lewis was a tutor of English language and literature at Magdalen College, it means he lived there and met with a select group of students regularly to provide them with individual guidance and teaching. Ah, to have had C.S. Lewis (my friend Jack!) as your tutor!!! He also lectured at the University of Oxford. 

Fun facts from the tour guide: 

• After being discharged from the British army because of illness, Tolkien got a job at the Oxford English Dictionary. During that time he worked on words near the beginning of the “w” section, from “waggle” to “warlock.” He spent almost two years on this section.

  
  

• Apparently, Lewis was a very popular lecturer, but Tolkien was considered a dull at the lectern.  

  
  

• Lewis is way more popular with American tourists, while Tolkien is more popular with the British. 

  
  

• Tolkien was frowned upon in academic circles for writing fantasy as it wasn’t seen as scholarly enough. 

Some my favorite sites on the tour were “The Eagle and the Child.” This is where the Inklings met. Alas, it was closed for renovation, so I will get to sit in the Rabbit Room on a future trip. 

The door with the lion's head and the golden fauns. 

The lamppost!

The story goes that Lewis was coming out of St. Mary’s one winter night and saw in front of him the lion on the door flanked by those golden fauns. He looked to the right and through the snow falling down saw that lamppost and thus the inspiration for “The Lion, The Witch, and the The Wardrobe” was born. 

Afterwards, we explored Oxford a bit, wandering the pretty streets and covered market.

And because Tom and I and our kids didn’t have enough literature on the walking tour, we went to “The Story Museum.” This was really fun and interactive, but is geared toward the younger set. 

Other than the art and storytelling activities, they also had a number of original objects displayed from TinTin to Anne of Green Gables, The Wind in the Willows, The Hobbit and Narnia. They even had C.S. Lewis's pipe, glasses and fountain pen.

Afterwards, we all met up again for Evensong at the Christ Church cathedral, a gorgeous building.

I found it interesting that in the main sanctuary the pews faced each other, so if you were singing you would be looking at, and singing to, those who were across from you. 

But tonight during Evensong (an Anglican service of singing prayer) it was a listening experience of two choirs (one local and one student choir visiting from Duke University). 

Tom managed to take a photo of us before he was scolded for having his phone out. 

As we walked back to our van, we had a hard time finding a restaurant that was open and, um, family friendly.

But just before we lost all hope of a sit-down meal, we managed to find an Indian place. My kids was immediately excited, but the others were game to try, and were willing to trust us. I’m glad they did. I think they are too.

I mean, can you say you have really gone to England if you have had no curry?!